This Asturian manor house, built between 1800 and 1840, has been a privileged witness to a significant part of the history of the Cathedral of Oviedo and, by extension, to that of the city itself and the whole of Asturias.

It is striking how, despite the many tribulations endured by the Cathedral of San Salvador throughout its recent history, this house has remained intact, preserving its original structure since its construction—as if it had been quietly taking note of every event that shaped the fate of the cathedral and, therefore, of Oviedo.

Although no exact date of construction is available, existing records place its erection between 1800 and 1840. This makes it a direct observer, even in its earliest days, of pivotal moments such as the meeting of the Asturian General Assembly in the Cathedral on 25 May 1808, when war was declared on Napoleonic France following the invasion of Spain. This declaration was read aloud from the balcony of the Puerta de la Limosna, directly opposite this house.

With the arrival of the 20th century, the cathedral entered its darkest period, and this house continued to bear silent witness to key historic events. In October 1934, the workers’ uprising ignited in Asturias, turning the cathedral into a battlefield where government-loyal forces entrenched themselves. In their attempt to seize the temple, the insurgents made the drastic decision to place an explosive charge of around 400 kg in the wall of the crypt of Saint Leocadia. The resulting blast destroyed the Cámara Santa, along with its treasures and the Holy Shroud, as well as part of the rear cloister.

A few years later, during the Civil War, the cathedral once again became the centre of fierce fighting, suffering up to 160 cannon strikes. The damage was substantial, affecting not only the cathedral itself but also its surroundings. It remains a mystery—perhaps good fortune, or even a miracle—that this house did not suffer any direct impact.

Although less dramatic, the cathedral experienced other remarkable episodes of which this house was also a witness. Some were positive, such as the swift reconstruction after the turbulent events; others were unfortunate, such as the theft on 9 August 1977, when a thief stole the Cross of Victory, the Cross of the Angels, and the Agate Box from the Cámara Santa, destroying everything to carry it off in a bag and fleeing through the Puerta de la Limosna, just in front of this house. Fortunately, the relics were recovered, the thief apprehended, and after thorough restoration, the items were returned to the Cámara Santa. The theft was considered a grave insult to all Asturians, and its resolution dominated the headlines of the day.

In 1996, the Cathedral of San Salvador once again made national headlines when, on Christmas Eve, a group of workers from Duro Felguera barricaded themselves in its tower in defence of their jobs, remaining there for 318 days.

These are but a few glimpses into the extraordinary history of the Cathedral of Oviedo, and of this house that has stood as a silent witness to it. The full story is far more extensive, and we invite you to explore it in depth.

Although this house cannot speak, if it could, it would have countless other stories to tell. Fortunately, today we can enjoy its quality hospitality offerings—the restaurant Al Baile La Temprana, the specialty coffee shop Per Se Café, and the cocktail and music bar La Piel del Tripulante—and sit for a moment to imagine what those times might have been like, perhaps just as someone once did when, taking advantage of the soot-darkened walls of the Cathedral before their restoration, painted the prosaic phrase that became popular at the time: ‘freedom for those who fancy a drink’.